After the demolition of the old New York Giants Stadium, Steiner Sports talked me into purchasing a stadium seat back signed by the great Carl Banks. The caked on food, vomit, and stale beer added to its authenticity. After having this seat back for several years, it was time to hang it for the world to see. I searched google high and low for a stadium seat back bracket to no avail. It was time for this weekend warrior to create his own stadium seat back bracket. I challenged myself to only use scraps so this bracket would be free.
The great Carl Banks, the last linebacker the Giants have had. 
Caked on “stuff” with additional stickiness
Making the Bracket
I decided to use the existing holes through the seat back to attach to my bracket. Since the back of the seat was rounded, I needed to cut a half moon shape out of wood. I had a few scrap 2×6’s laying around so I chose to use that. A 2×4 would have worked as well. I placed the seat back on the wood to trace the curved shape and offset the center line of the seat back 1/2″ from the edge of the wood. After tracing the seat back, I used my band saw to cut the bracket out. If you don’t own a band saw, a jig saw would have worked fine. For those of you who only believe in hand tools, a coping saw would have also worked.
After cutting out the stadium seat back bracket, a light hand sanding eliminated any splinter risks. I took the seat back and laid it onto the bracket and put in a bolt to see the angle for drilling. Since I was too lazy to calculate the angle and set up the vice on my drill press, I chose to drill the holes by hand using a 1/8″ drill bit to drill a pilot hole. I drilled the pilot hole through the hole in the seat back and into the wood bracket. Afterwards, I removed the seat back from the wood bracket, and was able to follow my pilot hole by hand.
I cut the corners off the bracket since I was using left over 4″ long toggle (molly) bolts. You will see why in later photos. Time to assemble.
Assembly
I chose to use the upper holes on the stadium seat back since the weight + gravity will mean the bottom of the seat back would push against the wall and the top of the seat back would be away form the wall (see photos below). If you prefer your seat back to be angled up, you should use the lower holes. After the dry fit went well, off to paint. I had a can of left over black spray paint and went to town. The weather was nice so it only took 2 hours to paint and dry two coats.
After the painted stadium seat back bracket was dry, I did the final assembly. I chose to install picture wire for hanging the seat back since it is very easy to hang and level. Drill 1/8″ pilot holes, twist in eye bolts, then tie the picture wire.
WEEKEND WARRIOR TIP: Use a screwdriver or any similar thing lying around to twist in eye bolts, your finger tips will appreciate it.
Cut corner allowed for toggle bolt. 
The ends of the bolts leaked beyond the limits of the stadium seat back bracket so I grabbed a hack saw to lop them off.
Finishing
Time to hang on the wall. I installed 2 picture hangers with a tap of the hammer and leveled the stadium seat back.
Seat angled down
Conclusions
I originally was planning on using scrap walnut or mahogany for the stadium seat back bracket, but after making the 2×6 template I realized the bracket would not be too visible. Instead of wasting expensive wood, I chose to paint the 2×6. The photo above shows how its barely visible, save the money and use whatever scrap you have. The remaining required materials were two (2) bolt assemblies, two (2) eye hooks, picture wire, and two (2) picture frame holders or nails. This was an easy project that took 10 minutes (not including painting) and was the great price of FREE.
